Hidden gems guide: Sangenjaya
My first share house in Tokyo was located in the Setagaya ward, right next to Meguro ward and south of Shibuya ward. It’s a more residential area compared to central areas like Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ginza, etc. But that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. On the contrary, after drinking myself to oblivion in a shameful number of bars, restaurants, and clubs all over Tokyo, one of my favourite going out areas has been and will always be Sangenjaya. In this guide, I’ll give you my treasured list of favourite spots in the area. But make sure to keep it for yourself!
About sangenjaya
Only two stops away from Shibuya Station on the Tokyo Hanzomon-Denentoshi line, you can find the lively area of Sangenjaya (三軒茶屋), also known as “Sancha”. The area is squeezed in between the somewhat more fancy neighbourhood of Ikejiri Ohashi (池尻大橋) and the more residential university area of Komazawa Daigaku (駒澤大学). From afar, you can spot the infamous Carrot Tower standing 124 meters tall above Sangenjaya Station.
On the 26th floor, you can access the Sky Carrot restaurant, as well as a free observation lobby open from 9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. On clear days, the tower offers an unobstructed view of Mount Fuji in the distance. Free access to the top makes it a much more cost-effective spot to enjoy a good view compared to paid alternatives like Shibuya Sky Tower, or Tokyo Skytree. So, there you you, your first gem!
Only after accidentally stumbling on a map of the area with a reference to the Carrot Tower, I discovered the building had an actual name. However, not many people—even locals—seem to be aware of this. Not surprising, as the building bears no resemblance to a carrot whatsoever. The name was chosen through a public competition, with "Carrot Tower" selected for its association with energy and vitality—much like a carrot.
sankaku chitai
My favourite place in Sangenjaya is Sankaku Chitai (三角地帯). Sankaku refers to the word for ‘triangle’ and chitai refers to an area/zone. This particular area in Sangenjaya can be characterised as a typical Yokocho (横丁), literally translating to ‘alleyway’ or ‘side street’. The Sankaku Chitai consists of a network of small streets with a myriad of bars and Izakaya (居酒屋) lined up on both sides, usually on the first ánd second floor. Most places barely have space for six people, but the coziness is exactly what makes it so characteristic. Personal space is not a thing, but the more you drink, the less you care about the physical intimacy.
Sangenjaya’s Sankaku Chitai
Drinks & food
I’ll start off with a list of my favourite places to eat. Heads up: some spots are not findable on Google Maps, so I will try my best to specify their location as precisely as possible.
Omoriya 鶏と玉子のオオモリヤ
2 Chome-13-4 Sangenjaya, Setagaya City, Tokyo 154-0024.
This one is for the daredevils with a passion for chicken. Raw chicken, to be precise. You might have already spotted this delicacy around Japan, but in case you want to go full local, this is the spot. If you are taller than 180cm, I would not recommend trying a place inside, as this spot it TINY. However, it does contribute to the cozy vibes. And if inside feels too crammed up, they also provide outside seating. I tried and tested their chicken sashimi. It’s definitely tasty and I didn’t get sick, but it did feel like some kind of Russian roulette to be eating raw chicken in a tiny shack with oil stains on the ceiling. So, proceed with caution. Here’s the address, in case you feel edgy.
Moss
4 Chome-28-2 Taishido, Setagaya City, Tokyo 154-0004
Moss isn’t necessarily a hidden gem anymore, as it has starred in various influencer videos due to its entrance “hidden” by a vending machine door and its funky interior. However, it seems that the place is still mostly visited by locals. As mentioned, the interior is a sight to take in, but the food—oh my god, the food. Moss specialises in meat dishes, but their burrata is to die for. As with many restaurants and bars in Tokyo, you have to pay a seating charge in the form of otoshi (お通し), which is usually a small dish or snack. Here, however, they provide you with the choice between a bowl of mixed nuts or a tequila shot in a tiny fancy goblet. In case you want to start off your meal with a little smack in the face.
Oden / Izakaya (name unknown)
If you like oden, a Japanese one-pot stew with different kinds of veggies, tofu, etc. in a light broth, this is a spot not to miss. On first sight, the immense frown on the owner’s face makes it seem like he dislikes everything that moves, but don’t let that hold you back from giving it a try. After a while, he turns out to be a good guy with no bad intentions. And most importantly, his oden and karaage (唐揚げ) are to die for. You find the place in between two places called Gyoza Shack and Izakaya Hoshigumi (2-chōme-13-10 Sangenjaya).
Drinks & fun
FRIENDS bar&lounge
〒154-0024 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Sangenjaya, 2 Chome−14−21 2階
This is one of the first bars I visited with my share housemates after I arrived in Tokyo. Because it is located on the second floor, i’s a tricky one to find. You have to wiggle your way to a narrow staircase, but the vibe upstairs is worth it. The bar is decorated with fake sakura flowers and they have a long list of cocktails to choose from. And bonus: you get free popcorn refills if you ask nicely. Late at night, there’s always a bunch of drunk Japanese locals in search for a chat in slurring broken English. Good to know beforehand is that you are allowed to smoke inside, which can be a dealbreaker for people who get nauseous by a whiff of tobacco. If not, make sure to pass by for a drink or two—or eight.
Karaoke best 10
2 Chome-14-5 Sangenjaya, Setagaya City, Tokyo 154-0024
By far one of my favourite karaoke bars in Tokyo is Best 10. Compared to the bigger karaoke booth chains like Big Echo, Best 10 is a blast from the past with much lower prices and more local vibes. In fact, the place is so local that the English songs on the karaoke machines are more limited than other karaoke places. Although it does remind me a bit of a run down hotel that had its best years in the early nineties, you get free soda refills, are allowed to bring your own drinks and food, and—once again—unlimited popcorn refills.
Dj bar Tengu Shokudo
〒154-0004 Tokyo, Setagaya City, Taishido, 5 Chome−15−11 ケーテー三軒茶屋
The cherry on the cake in this list is DJ Bar Tengu Shokudo, a small bar owned by possibly the most genki and crazy people I’ve come across in Tokyo so far. Tengu Shokudo isn’t just a bar with drinks and music, it is a cultural phenomenon. The regulars are part of a larger whole that is deeply ingrained in the psytrance/(acid) techno/dub community in and outside of Tokyo. They likely visit every single hidden free party and festival known within the borders of Japan. The bar itself is located a little bit further away from the Sangenjaya yokocho, very close to the humongous gorilla that’s hanging over the local family mart. You have to climb up a flight of stairs in order to reach the bar, which is packed to the brim with decorations consisting of fake plants, crazy light installations and miscellaneous knick-knacks. The floor above the bar is also owned by the Tengu crew and is used for larger parties and events. However, usually you can find one of the regulars sprawled out sleeping on one of the couches after another sleepless night of drinking and dancing.
Give sancha a try
I could go on for hours about Sancha, and there are so much more places to discover there, but I’ll leave that up to you. Stumbling upon a random gem in Sangenjaya is an adventure on its own, which I strongly recommend you to dive into every once in a while. Especially if you got sick of the masses in Shibuya and Shinjuku and want to experience the more local going out scene in Tokyo: Sancha is the spot. Just make sure to keep it to yourself.