Yodakimpo - Miyazaki Delicacies & ferrets
One of the reasons I decided to start a blog is to be able to write about what could possibly be my favourite izakaya in Tokyo: Yodakimpo. Hidden in the cracks of Google Maps, I lost sight of this gem after visiting for the first time. But after scouting every single little side street in my local neighbourhood, I am proud to say I found it back. Naturally, I immediately planned a dinner date with my Japanese FWB, where “Benefits” stands for visiting shabby half-collapsing local restaurants where no one speaks a word of English. Now, I generally don’t mind (anymore) to go to a restaurant by myself. However, those small local izakaya’s still tend to scare me a little bit.
I initially found Yodakimpo when looking for a place to eat with some football lads I met that day. I had been friends with one of them, and he introduced me to a part of the rest of the crew. After a couple of beers, we planned for some drunk food and ended up at this tiny bar with a ferret as their mascot. The bar is located only a few meters away from the well-known and, in my opinion, overpriced Mexican restaurant “Junkadelic” in Nakameguro. But, as always, Junkadelic was packed to the brim with foreigners, with no space left for five more gaijins. Hence, we ended up a few meters further at Yodakimpo.
Ferrets & bible readings
Accidentally aggressively shoving open the rusty sliding door, we stumbled into a typical small bar with seemingly not more than 7 seats. Before being able to take in the greasy walls covered by bleached posters with pictures of the Japanese city Miyazaki (yes, like the guy from Studio Ghibli), we were met with a wall of tobacco smoke floating through the space. As a smoker myself back then, I didn’t mind. Hell, I always felt relieved knowing I didn’t have to squeeze myself into a 1 by 1 meter square smoking room. What next came into sight where the owner of the place, and someone who was possibly his wife. They both had their hair dyed in an impressively bright royal blue shade, so I took that as a sign of them either being a couple or siblings.
The man led us to a hidden room in the back of the restaurant, behind a shelf that made my hands itch to tidy up. The tatami floor was not more than 1 by 2 meters big and in the middle stood a low table surrounded by five pillows. Apart from the knee cramps and dying off limbs, I love floor seatings. It immediately invites for a more relaxed and casual atmosphere. We sat down and ordered a bunch of Lemon Sours to start with. Not even 5 minutes later, the owner came back with a menu as big as the bible. Mind you, half of it consisted of pictures of what I assumed was the real life version of the ferret mascot.
What unfolded next was the most intricate and detailed description of a menu I have ever had in my life. This man had the upmost patience to discuss every single item on the menu in detail, from starters to mains, sides, deserts and drinks, nothing was left out. The whole ordeal took about 15 minutes, while the lads were exchanging confused glances at each other as only one of them actually spoke fluent Japanese. We had long finished our first drinks before we got the chance to order another one and a bunch of food.
Straight outta Miyazaki
For the longest of times, I was under the impression that Miyazaki was simply the name of the restaurant, which made it significantly difficult to find it back afterwards. Instead, the restaurant owners are from Miyazaki, a city on the east coast of the island of Kyushu, where I did a roadtrip with my friend a year prior. Most items on the menu consisted of local specialities from Miyazaki.
Hyuganatsu
Halfway through the extensive menu of Yodakimpo, you’ll find a list of alcoholic beverages, ranging from a classic highball and lemon sour to drinks with a more Miyazaki background. One of those drinks is pretty much a lemon sour, but with a local Miyazaki-grown citrus fruit called hyuganatsu. Hyuganatsu is believed to be a hybrid between yuzu and pomelo, discovered in the 1820s. I must admit that I haven’t been able to taste the difference between hyuganatsu and lemon sour, but that might just be due to my uncultured tastebuds.
Miyazaki Chicken nanban
I LOVE fried chicken, especially Chicken Nanban, which is served with a big dollop of chunky and slightly vinegary tartar sauce. Until recently, I had no idea Chicken Nanban originated from Kyushu. Heck, I didn’t even know it was a Japanese dish. The term "Nanban" (南蛮), meaning "Southern barbarian," historically referred to the Portuguese traders who arrived in Japan during the 16th century. Their introduction of Western culinary techniques influenced several Japanese dishes, including Chicken Nanban. The dish was developed in the 1960s in Nobeoka City in Miyazaki Prefecture.
Miyazaki BEEF
Probably the best item on the menu is their Miyazaki beef, served on a sizzling hot cast iron plate that will burn you to death if you hand slips while helping yourself to a serving of mindblowing beef. When it comes to beef, Miyazaki beef stands in a league of its own. Known for its melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and rich marbling, this premium wagyu is a TREAT, I’m telling you.
Tempura Vegetables
Ok, this is not necessarily from Miyazaki, but definitely something you should order when you decide to drop by. Their plate of friend veggies is to die for and most definitely in my top 5 of best tempura I’ve had in Japan so far.
Ferrets?
I’m still not sure what’s up with these ferrets. The last two pages of the menu consist of pictures of various ferrets, I’m guessing the original and one they took in after the first one passed away. But what is their story? What is so special about these animals that they chose to make it their mascot? I even spotted a cage right next to the kitchen, but the towel draped over it prevented me from looking inside to check if there was a ferret inside. I hope to go back one day with better Japanese skills, to ask them all my burning questions.
Ferret or not, I love this place and everything about it. From the mysterious cage, the blue-haired owners, grease-covered walls, bleached posters, and stale cigarette smell to the banging Chicken Nanban and fire Miyazaki beef. Try it out for yourself, when you’re in the neighbourhood.
Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/qy65boGGKDxdWBZ66
Address: Japan, 〒153-0051 Tokyo, Meguro City, Kamimeguro, 4 Chome−10−2 よだきんぼ